C H I N A - B U R M A - I N D I A E D I T I O N - P A R T T W O
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This screwball cameraman clicks his shutter at East Asia's most photogenic figures,
but his heart belongs to a U.S. gas station.
NORTHERN BURMA - If there's a zanier screwball in all of China, Burma or India than T-5 Tommy Amer of
Los Angeles, Calif., Adm. Lord Louis Mountbatten would like to know who he could be.
So would Ann Sheridan, Jinx Falkenburg, an entire Signal Photographic Company, assorted generals and colonels, and at
least two platoons of Chinese infantry.
As a matter of fact, most of these people still don't know just who Amer is supposed to be.
The other day, as Amer waddled his 5-foot-5, 100-pound anatomy around a place named Momauk during the battle for
Bhamo, a colonel spotted him.
"What tribe are you a member of, son?" asked the colonel, eyeing his bronzed face, "the Sioux?"
A little while later some Chinese soldiers happened to see the squint-eyed Amer walk by. Taking him for one of their
own men in American uniform, they spouted a long Chinese greeting at him.
On another occasion a general patted Amer on the back and declared, "You Japanese-American boys in our Army deserve
a lot of credit."
And when some American infantrymen passed him on the trail a couple of weeks ago, they figured from his face and his
hodge-podge uniform that he was one of the Kachin hill people of Burma, so they yelled "Ka-ja-ee (hello)" at
him.
To all such ignorant characters, Amer throws a stock retort, combining Chinese and Southern greetings, rendered with
a Dixie accent.
"Habla how, yo-all!" he replies. This confounds them even more.
According to his service record, Amer is a Chinese-American serving as a still photographer for the U.S. Army Signal
Corps. But there are some who wonder if maybe Amer didn't have the clerk who made up his service record fooled, too.
When he was assigned to take pictures of Lord Mountbatten's trip to Myitkyina some months ago he wore his usual green
fatigues, a wide-brimmed Ghurka felt hat, two guns, three cameras, flashbulbs sticking out of every pocket and a wide
grin. The admiral looked him over with growing astonishment and asked where he came from.
"Los Angeles, Calif., sir" said Amer.
"Well, well," smiled Mountbatten. "I have spent some time in Hollywood, myself. I suppose you used to work as a
Hollywood photographer before you joined the Army."
"No, sir," replied Amer. "Only been to Hollywood twice in my life. I handle the gas pump in a service station."
This admission in itself has made Amer unique among GI photographers, for it's the custom in this civilian army,
where everybody claims he made at least $100 a week in civilian life, for any photographer who happens to hail
from the West Coast to say with an air of nonchalance and superiority, "Oh, I'm from Hollywood," thus establishing
his genius among fellow GIs.
Amer is actually proud that he used to work in a service station and not as a professional photographer. "When I left
to join the Army," he says, "I owned one-fifth of the station. But now they write me that I own more of it - one-sixth
of it. Geez, I hope this don't mean I'll run into income-tax invasion."
When Jinx Falkenburg and Pat O'Brien came to Burma with a USO troupe, Amer soon had Jinx posing for pin-up cheesecake
pictures. Jinx liked the pictures so well that she told Amer she would get him a good publicity photographer's job,
come the Armistice.
"Sorry, ma'am," said Amer, "but I'm going back to that gas pump."
No one seems to know how Amer ever got into Army photography in the first place, except that GI classification often
does queer things. But he has picked up photography so fast that his pictures of brass hats and celebrities - which
are his specialty - have appeared in newspapers all over the States.
One of these pictures, of Ann Sheridan hugging a veteran of Merrill's Marauders, won Amer a life-long friend. The
ex-Marauder had been so overwhelmed with the chance to meet an honest-to-God screen sweetheart that he hauled out
one of his two hard-won Jap flags and edged through a crowd of GIs to give it to her.
Ann was so grateful that she spontaneously threw her arms around the soldier. Amer was changing film nearby at the
time, and he saw that the hug would make a whale of a picture. So he asked Ann to repeat the hug and hold it until
he could click the shutter.
Ann did it again - for several long minutes as Amer fussed with his flashbulbs and camera adjustments. Finally he
flashed the picture.
Afterwards the GI came up to Amer and exclaimed: "Gee, that was wonderful. I'll remember that embrace the rest of
my life. I don't know how to thank you." Amer knew how - he got the GIs other Jap flag.
Amer loves to needle the brass. Once a staff officer who is in the habit of confronting correspondents and photographers
with the words, "I used to be a newspaperman once myself," heard Amer was from Los Angeles and looked him up.
"Did you ever work for a newspaper in L.A.?" the officer asked. "You know, I used to be a reported on the Times.
"You did, sir?" piped Amer. "I worked for the Times myself, for a while." And just when the officer was about
to ask when he worked there and who he knew, Amer added "Yeah, I used to sell it on the street."
His buddies in the Signal Photographic Company call Amer the Flashbulb King, for he uses flash bulbs as plentifully
in taking his pictures as Mae West uses sex to make hers.
Once when he was shooting some pictures in a mess hall, one of his bulbs exploded, showering tiny pieces of glass into
half a dozen GIs' mess kits. By that time it was too late for them to get any more chow, so they weren't very happy
about the whole thing. The ever-grinning Amer took in the situation, then yelled, "Hable how, yo-all!" and
ended the assignment by beating a hasty retreat. For two days afterward he refused to shoot a flash picture.
"I felt just like a pilot after a crack-up,: he recalls. "But I finally managed to pull myself together again."
Of course, if any of his pictures are ever out of focus or overexposed or blanks, Amer shrugs the matter off to
his CO with, "What can you expect from a gas station attendant?"
His picture captions are as remarkable as his personality. For instance, "Well, well, look at that little lamb;
it is wearing a Jap battle flag that these boys killed a Jap to get." Or "At this point one sniper gave them more
trouble than all the enemy forces. The sniper is no more - we got the bastard." Or "Here is the place we almost
got our fanny blown to hell." Or "These American infantrymen walking back for a rest are full of smile and joy."
In his talkative moments, which occur several times each hour, Amer never tires of telling how he snafued a whole
division on Tennessee maneuvers, or how a clerk once thought his name Amer was an abbreviation for "American
nationality," or how he got a Purple Heart in the Myitkyina battle for a tiny face burn from a shell that burst
only 15 yards away.
In his spare time, when he's not out in the middle of the Irrawaddy River fishing from an Air Force life raft,
Amer studies a War Department booklet entitled, "How To Speak Chinese."
"All the time I'm getting picked up by Chinese MPs for wearing an American uniform," he explains, "and it's always
tough to talk my way out of it because I don't talk their kind of Chinese. You see, my folks were born in Canton,
which has a language all its own."
At rare intervals, Amer does run across a Chinese soldier who speaks his language. Last week he met a Chinese colonel
from Canton. "You say your name is Amer?" asked the colonel. "Ah, yes, I knew the Amers well. You used to be
smugglers in Canton, didn't you?"
"That just shows you the troubles I have," moans Amer, fingering a flashbulb. "Even people from Canton."
By Sgt. Dave Richardson - YANK Staff Correspondent - February 23, 1945 edition.
Burma Hermits
Mail call comes only once a month, there's never any pay day and the jungle is a worse enemy than the Jap.
NORTHERN BURMA - One day during the fall of 1942 a clerk at Services of Supply Headquarters in India was studying
a requisition form from a Signal Corps Aircraft Warning outfit. After reading the form again he suspected that someone
was trying to pull a gag.
The clerk called a sergeant. Then the sergeant called a lieutenant. "Now, what the hell do they want with that kind of
stuff?" asked the sergeant. "Colored beads, rock salt, flashy-colored blankets and - well, and all those other crazy
items."
Today SOS Headquarters in this theater is no longer surprised at anything that Aircraft Warning may order. Requests
for items that aren't strictly GI are complied with quickly and without question.
To accomplish their mission, men of the Aircraft Warning units frequently have to venture into strange and unexplored
sections of the jungle. They are often forced to call for the help of natives who have never seen white men before,
and these natives usually prefer glittering and flashy objects to money.
During its history, Aircraft Warning has constructed hundreds of miles of jungle and foot trails, and many times,
because of the nature of the terrain, its men have had to travel far beyond Jap lines to establish their stations.
The first station was established late in 1942 in the Naga Hills of India, on the Burma border. Later, as the
Americans and Chinese fought their way through northern Burma, many other stations were set up in the jungles and
hills of that country. Now the network is so vast that a Jap plane can rarely sneak over our lines without being
detected.
The station I visited is only a few miles from a road on the Burma-India border. Many other stations, however, are so
far back in the jungles that it takes anywhere from 5 to 18 days' walking to get to them. The trails are narrow and
Pvt. George Karastamatis of the Bronx, N.Y., is on duty as ground observer at an AW station in northern Burma.
snake around steep hills, and often you must ford waist-deep streams.
Our guide was T/Sgt. Fred Fegley of Pine Grove, Pa., a former lineman for the Pennsylvania Light and Power Company.
Fegley has spent more than two years at various stations and during that time he figures he has hiked upward of
1,500 miles of jungle trail. "I'm not kicking, mind you," Fegley said as we paused for a rest. "But back in the States
nobody in our outfit ever dreamed we would go through anything like this."
Fegley said that the outfit's greatest danger was not from the Japs, but from nature. During monsoon seasons the men
don't dare sit on the ground for a rest. "You even pick up leeches when you're
walking," Fegley said. "Frequently
you have to stop to pick them from your body so they won't suck too much blood out of you."
And during the monsoons, streams become rivers. There are dozens of streams across the paths to many of our stations.
So a station that takes a five-day hike in ordinary times is difficult to get to in twice that time when the
monsoons are on."
One thing you can knock off as a myth, according to Fegley, is the danger from wild animals such as tigers and
elephants. "Actually our outfit has had little trouble from animals," Fegley said. "Most people like to exaggerate
the number of wild animals they see in the jungle. Of course, you do have to be careful. Once one of our men put up
his jungle hammock for the night and his dog crept under it to sleep. Next morning there was a pool of blood but no
dog."
The average station is operated by a 10-man team with a staff sergeant in command. The men are required to spend at
least six months in the jungle before returning to a rear area for a rest. But oftener than they like, they have to
remain longer. Some teams have served at their posts as long as 11 months without relief.
One of the first acts of an Aircraft Warning team is to call on the village nearest the station. Most natives have
been helpful; they've shown the men where to find their water supply and helped them build bashas - quarters
for the men - from bamboo and thatching.
The Army's system of going through channels is found even among the natives in the jungle. Before hiring anyone the
men first contact the headman of the village, who then designates a number of his people to work at the station.
The headman usually sends his own son to act as a sort of straw boss.
These quarters were built by Naga natives. At the table is Cpl. Dale Calderon, cook, and right is Pvt. Karastamatis.
"Things have changed from the early days in these jungles," Fegley lamented. "It used to be we could do a flourishing
business with the natives by trading large tin cans. One can would bring you as much as a chicken. Now there are so
many tin cans that it's caused inflation. A guy cant' even get the shell of an egg for one."
At one station where the men ran out of trinkets, a GI squeezed all the cream from a Williams shaving tube. Then he
very neatly flattened the tube and gave it to one of the natives. The native wore it as an ornament around his neck
- free advertising for Williams shaving cream.
Medics are highly respected by the natives. Sgt. Eugene Schultz of Buffalo, N.Y., is the medic at the station I
visited. All the natives there call him Doc. "We're too far from a village here," Schultz said, "but at other
stations some of our medics make weekly calls on the villages. On visiting day every woman and child groups around
Doc, and they all pour out their troubles.
"One thing we have been able to accomplish in these jungles is to teach these people to be cleaner. Many of them
suffer from malaria and dysentery. Since we've been stressing cleanliness we've found fewer of them with
dysentery."
During my stay at Schultz's station, a native woman came in with a badly infected foot. Schultz tried for days
to persuade her to soak it in hot water and epsom salts. She finally consented after other natives nagged her
into it.
"Usually you don't have to urge them," Schultz says. "And, brother, once you get them coming to sick call you really
get the business. They come whether they're sick or not. When you give one of them a pill they all demand one. We
finally got around it by giving salt tablets to those who weren't ill. The salt tablets do no harm and they make
the natives happier."
The days at the station are long and boring. Some of the men have taken to writing books and short stories. Occasionally
the headman invites one of the GIs to a pig roast in the village, but mostly the men spend their time reading or
hunting. Every team is given a 12-gauge gun for hunting purposes. Barking deer, pheasants, quail and several species
of grouse are the most common game.
Cpl. Russell Higgerson of Albany, N.Y., turns school teacher. He is trying to get two Naga kids through the English alphabet.
Some of the men have taken to teaching the children to read and write, and many natives around the stations have
acquired an elementary knowledge of English. Cpl. Russell Higgerson of Albany, N.Y., was teaching two children at
the station I visited. "Don't kid yourself about their appearance," Higgerson said. "These kids are as smart as
any I've seen back home. I'd love to take one to the States and see what a school education could do for him."
Mail service is the biggest gripe the men have. Mail, delivered with food and supplies, is dropped by C-47s once a
month except during the monsoon season, when it's even slower. The problem of getting mail for the States out to
an APO is more difficult. At some stations the men have worked out a runner system with native messengers. But the men
at stations 50 miles or deeper in the jungle have to wait many months before they can send a letter home. To keep
their families informed, the officers at headquarters write for the men.
The men aren't paid until they report back to headquarters for a rest, but since there is no place to spend money,
they don't give the pay delay a thought.
Some men in the outfit have had their share of combat. When Col. Philip Cochran and his 1st Airborne Commandos
landed 150 miles behind Jap lines in northern Burma in March 1944, an Aircraft Warning unit went along. Most of
their equipment was bombed out after the men had landed, and many of the men suffered from malaria. Nevertheless
they went on with their work and established a station.
Last April, when the Japs penetrated into Assam in their threat to invade India, the men in the Kohima district
remained at their stations until the enemy almost overran them. 1st Sgt. Daniel H. Schroeder of Casnovia, Mich.,
a communications chief, was one of the last American enlisted men to leave his post when the Japs cut the
Manipur Road between Kohima and Dimapur. And during the Jap drive, Aircraft Warning units were the sole medium
of communicating intelligence to the British. Native scouts reported the Jap movements, and the men at the stations
relayed the information to the British.
Fegley was team chief at one of those stations. At 2200 one night, a native reported that the enemy had infiltrated
the area near the station. Fegley ordered his men to destroy all equipment. He also ordered that all food cans be
broken with axes and creosote poured into them. This was done so that the Japs, who were known to be short on food,
could not benefit from our supplies.
Sgt. Eugene Schultz of Buffalo, N.Y., medic for an observation team, treats the foot of a Naga woman.
At 0300 next morning, Fegley and his men took their field equipment, tommy guns and hand grenades and began hiking
through the jungles to warn another station. The men walked until 2200 that night, covering a distance of 28 miles.
After taking a five-hour break, they resumed the trek until they reached the other station, 19 miles farther.
The threat of Jap planes has been eliminated to a great extent in this theater, but the men are still kept busy.
These hills are among the most difficult in the world to fly over, and a number of crashes result. When this
happens, the stations nearest the crash are called upon to send out searching parties. Dozens of flyers have been
saved in this manner.
In August 1943, when John B. Davies, secretary to the American Embassy in Chungking, crashed with a number of American
civilians and soldiers and Chinese officers, men of Aircraft Warning went to the rescue. The plane crashed in the
Ponyo area of the Naga Hills. Some natives in that area are known to be head-hunters and generally unfriendly.
Therefore help had to be sent as quickly as possible.
Two Aircraft Warning men - 1st Lt. Andrew La Bonte of Lawrence, Mass., and S/Sgt. John L. DeChaine of Oakland, Calif.
- together with a British political officer, organized a searching party of natives acquainted with that section.
The men tramped over narrow paths and through mud and water for five days and covered 125 miles before they found
the crash victims.
When the party prepared to leave with 20 survivors of the crash, some natives started a riot over items that were left
behind. Sgt. DeChaine, employing a little Yankee diplomacy, intervened and quelled the riot.
"In this business you've got to be a diplomat, a businessman, a hermit and an aircraft observer," Fegley said. "Mostly,
though, you've got to be ready for surprises. Anything can happen here, even if we are a bunch of GI jungle orphans."
By Sgt. Walter Peters - YANK Staff Correspondent - April 6, 1945 edition.
Signal Construction outfits in the CBI do their job under difficult working conditions.
In extremes of heat and rain, in swampland and jungle they set up their poles, string their wire and maintain a
complicated communications system.
When trucks bog down, Jumbo the elephant lends a hand.
Pfc. Gerald Shenker of Brooklyn, N.Y., and T-5 Frank Warmuth of Corona, N.Y., pay out wire on a line project
across a river in India, using portable reels.
While this elephant stands sreadily and patiently by, a Signal Construction man ties in a communications line.
These animals are a big help for this type of work because the swampy terrain makes it difficult for GI trucks.
A GI and Pioneers of the Indian Army hack a right of way through the jungle, blazing the trail for the wire crews
to follow.
An elephant supplants the GI truck to transport these GI Signal Construction men through the swamplands af Assam.
Jumbo comes in handy when the men go out to check up on their communications lines and he drags his lunch along.
A 14-foot pole in the hands of T-4 Joseph Johnson of Yonkers, N.Y., sinks deep into the monsoon-made lake covered
with water lilies. Johnson keeps the wire lines opne.
T/Sgt. Alfred Holden of Los Angeles, Calif., takes a break from line stringing to talk to a Punjabi bridge guard.
October 21, 1944 edition.
Maj. Charles Ebertz was a veterinarian in civilian life.
A pack train of GIs and Chinese follows a mountain river bed on the way to a Lolo village.
GI HORSE TRADERS
They trade for horses with the Lolos, who'd rather fight than eat.
NORTHERN CHINA - Four of us left Kunming, China, in a weapons carrier that was loaded to the limit. It carried
extra drums of gasoline, food enough to last a month, bedding rolls, a sack of mail and another, more important sack.
The second sack held several million dollars in Chinese currency, just part of a larger sum destined to do a special
job.
A vital phase of China's war against the Jap was connected with our trip and with other trips like it. The millions
were to be delivered to a group of GIs in Tibet and in the unexplored part of China inhabited by the Lolos - fierce,
black-caped characters who consider it sport to rob and kill. Our party was bound for Lololand, armed with two
shotguns, two .45s and an M1, but we would have felt better with a brace of machine guns. That much cash makes you
nervous.
The Lolos and the Tibetans have good horses and the GIs at our destination were there to buy them for China. China
needs horses in girding herself for a squeeze-ply against the Japs as the possibility of an invasion of China's
eastern coast grows stronger. One look at China from a plane will answer any questions about the need for horses.
There are only a few roads good enough to handle the weight of trucks to carry supplies to the fighting fronts,
especially if these fronts should mover farther east. The only feasible way to get supplies through is to pack
them by horse.
Horse trading was our military assignment.
Out of Kunming, we swung onto the newly opened Burma Road. We stuck to it for three hours and then turned off to head
straight north. The U.S. Army convoy trucks we left behind us on the Burma Road were the last American vehicles we
were to see for over a month except for another weapons carrier and a jeep that were in use by GIs at the horse-trading
encampment.
We had three days of roller-coaster riding before we sighted the very blue waters of the Yellow River. Part of the
Chinese Navy - we had never thought of a Navy so far inland - ferried us across. After that, more road, this time
dotted with flimsy wooden bridges.
Many of the bridges bore scars of fire and we knew we were nearing the Lolo country. We had heard that some of the
Lolos had been on a rampage not long before and had burned down a number of bridges so that they could waylay any
vehicle held up by one of them. The Chinese Navy had told us that two bridges were down, but that new ones were
near completion. Their G-2 was correct for we found all finished bridges and were reassured at evidence that
communications were better than we had thought.
All that money in these surroundings still worried us. When we pulled into a small town to stay overnight our relief
was almost audible.
Just as we were ready to shove off, some Lolos grabbed us for a party.
Sgt. Willard Selph, of the veterinary outfit which does the horse buying, parked the weapons carrier and we unloaded
our stuff in a building erroneously called a hotel. Upstairs it boasted bare rooms, littered with egg shells that
must have been there for weeks. Light came into the rooms from rat holes large enough to accommodate a small, foolhardy
dog. The windows were paper-covered holes in the wall. This was the only available lodging in the town, so we parked
our gear and our millions and left Maj. Earl Ritter to guard it while we hunted up a recommended restaurant.
We walked through dark, narrow streets and halfway to the eating place in this blackness came upon a sight that dashed
my appetite to bits. Hanging just above our eye-level were eight human heads, strung up on a cord between two poles.
Wong, our interpreter, evidently wanted us to get the full effect for he said nothing until after we had seen them.
Then he told us the story: They were the heads of savage Lolos brought back by friendly Lolos as prizes of war from a
battle of the week before. He further explained that "white" and "black" Lolos war periodically because of crimes
committed by the latter. We thanked him.
We pulled out the next day when the town was having its annual Buddha-washing festival. The citizens wash the statue
on a certain day every year and the cleaning is done by a selected man and woman, the "living Buddhas." The lucky
couple is carried up to the statues in a long procession and they bring everything with them in the way of oil and
trinkets except soap.
We found half the men on the horse-buying assignment, when we arrived at the camp, considering their job in the light
of a rest camp deal. These are GIs who have been through the misery of the Salween campaign which helped reopen the
Ledo-Burma Road. Even this out-of-the-way spot looks good to them now.
The GI who looked and talked more like a cowboy than anyone else at the camp was T-4 Michael Brutcher of Wilkinsburg,
Pa. He was a steel worker there, but when he shipped to this theater he was put into a veterinary outfit; why he
doesn't know himself. Brutcher had belonged to the outfit that was rounding up, buying and delivering horses to Ledo
for use by Merrill's Marauders. He was doing the same job when we saw him.
Two westerners in the detachment - Pfc. William Hightower of Stephenville, Tex., and Pvt. William Nealon of Denver,
Colo. - have the toughest job in the whole assignment. They are the pack leaders and, when the desired number of
horses are bought in the area, Hightower and Nealon with a string of Chinese mafus (caretakers) lead them to
a collecting point somewhere in southern China.
When the time comes for shoeing the herd before it heads south the job will fall to T-4 Norman Skala, a GI blacksmith
from Elgin, Ill.
The crux of the job - buying the horses - is not so simple a matter as
dipping into the millions of dollars and waving a fistful of cash before the
eyes of the horse owners. Horses and guns are the most highly prized possessions
A bunch of horses rushes into a corral to the feeding troughs.
of the Lolos and they won't give either up simply at the sight of a wad of moola.
The first step in buying is for the GI traders to go into a town and get in touch with a magistrate, for a magistrate
in this country has power of life or death over his people. They ask him to
spread word that Americans are in the
city to buy whatever horses are for sale.
The owners then bring their horses into town and they bring with them a mayadza, a professional horse broker.
All deals are made through the mayadza, never directly with the owners, although the owners are present most
of the time to keep an eye on the progress of the trading. If the bargaining is successful, the broker shouts,
"Maila!" to the owner. This means "Sell!" If the owner agrees, the mayadza drops the halter on the
horse and the deal is closed. You don't own a horse until the moment the broker lets loose the halter.
Both brokers and owners drive a hard bargain. Maj. Charles Ebertz of Auburn, N.Y., who has done most of the buying
here, a practicing vet in civilian life, reports case after case where he spent three to four hours buying one horse.
Occasionally, sellers will pull fast ones. Once a GI buyer discovered too late that he had paid a good price for a
club-footed horse. During the sale the animal had been standing ankle-deep in straw.
In some instances money is no good at all. Almost all the Lolos would rather have silver blocks than folding stuff
and that poses another problem for the GIs, who have to go out and hunt up sufficient silver blocks.
Tibetans, on the other hand, will take money if they have to but prefer barter goods and the things they ask for have
caused many an issue head to be scratched. They are moved by fads and the last Tibetan fancy was for yellow felt hats.
For such a hat a horse owner in Tibet would trade his best nag. Col. Daniel H. Mallan of Harrisburg, Pa., head of all
the horse-buying groups, made a special plane trip to China and back to procure yellow hats. He couldn't get any felt
ones, but yellow-painted helmet liners came close enough to buy a few horses before the fad melted away.
A trip we made with one of the trading parties will give a rough idea of typical horse procurement routine as practiced
by the Army in China.
We drove first as far as we could by motor to a small town to which our saddle horses and mules had been driven the day
before. Their arrival had spread the word of our mission before us. When we arrived at the town at 0900 there were
crowds of curious spectators who had been waiting for us for hours. They mobbed our truck by the hundreds and helped
us saddle our horses and load our gear.
Just as we were ready to shove off, half a dozen of them grabbed us by the arms and led us to a hovel that looked like
a Hollywood opium den. There they brought out a huge black jug and poured each of us a bowl of their very best rice
wine, stored away for special occasions like this. It was like liquid dynamite, but, as soon as we took a sip from
our individual bowls, our hosts refilled them. Dish after dish of food followed the wine and the meal was interrupted
constantly by toasts. As soon as we finished one meal, another party was on hand, dragging us to its hovel. Everyone
wanted to entertain. Everyone who had a delicacy on his own dish wanted us to take a bite. Two hours went by before
we could get our show on the road.
We reached the Lolo village we were seeking late in the evening and, although we were dog tired, our eyes opened at the
sights that greeted us. We had heard earlier that there was a sickness among the Lolos and in the village we saw four
tribesmen stretched on the ground in the last stages of something. It wasn't until the second day that we found out
the nature of the plague. The four had been having a party on rice wine 10 times stronger than that we had sampled
down the road and were recovering from the inevitable attack of DTs.
The youngest son of the tribal chief, Lo-Tai-Ing, came out to greet us. He bowed gracefully and in very good English
repeated that favorite GI expression about "blowing it out." That was all he could say in English and it reminded us
of the story that a bomber had crashed up country and its crew had never been heard of. We were nervous again.
Wong immediately announced the reason for our visit. He told the Lolos that we had silver to buy horses and that we
came bearing gifts and medicine.
The tribesmen tied our horses and took us to a room in the mansion of the chief. In a matter of minutes we were backed
up against the wall by a stream of Lolos who pushed into the room to get a look at the Meigwas - the
Americans. They stared at us, checking their own features against ours, and mumbled among themselves. They felt the
texture of our skins and measured our wrists, ankles and necks. Then they took turns standing beside us to compare
heights. They were amazed by our wrist watches and pocket knives, but our guns were the main attraction.
After they had concluded the inspection to their satisfaction, some of them took Wong aside and told him they would
like to have a shooting contest with us. Maj. Ebertz agreed and said he would stack his M1 against any of their rifles.
Lo-Tai-Ing, tribal chief of the Lolo village visited by the GI horse buyers, tries out on M1.
One of the young kids brought out a piece of tile and took off for the hills nearby. He placed the tile, which was to
be the target, about 300 yards away and then the chief came up with his rifle. He took five shots at the tile, but every
one was either too short or off to one side. Maj. Ebertz took his turn. He put one round in his M1, adjusted the sights,
took aim, squeezed off his shot and splattered the target to bits. Every Lolo around jumped with excitement. We were
in.
We slept in the Lolo village that night and in the morning the chief's son came to Wong with word that the tribesmen
were going to kill two bulls in our honor and did we want to watch the slaughtering? The Lolo method of killing
animals isn't pretty and we didn't stay out the whole show. What we did see was enough.
One Lolo felled the first bull with an axe and, as it wavered to its knees, he pounded over the heart, on the back
and on the legs, screaming every time he swung the axe. The Lolo onlookers hopped up and down, delirious with
laughter. While the bull was still kicking, a second Lolo slit its throat. We were supposed to accept this sacrifice
with deep appreciation.
The killer's axe missed its target on the second bull and the animal got away to the hills, at a fast pace. The Lolos
gestured excitedly to the major that they wanted him to shoot the runaway. He brought it down with a single shot, the
cleanest execution in Lololand in a long time. We checked out before the final details of butchery.
That evening the Lolos feasted on the two bulls. They sat in circles, about 20 to the circle, eating the beef from
massive bowls, one to each group. They had only one eating tool, a spoon which looks something like a tiny niblick.
It is used for their soup which is served at every meal and one spoon does for a whole circle of diners.
Their eating must rank among the world's nosiest. With some 200 lips smacking in enjoyment at one time, it sounded as
if you were standing near a lake listening to the slap of waves against a row of moored boats. They did not invite
us to join any of the circles and we did not regret it. They did bring us some uncooked liver and tripe to take back
to camp with us.
Our quarters while we were with the tribes were in the corner of a large room on the second floor of the chief's
mansion. The house is still abuilding and Wong discovered that this marked its fourth year of construction. The
Lolos themselves know nothing about carpentry and such work is done by Chinese they have captured and enslaved.
Farming, too, is a slave's job, and the Lolo warriors are left with little to do but drink rice wine all day.
After the bull feast, the chief paid a visit to our quarters. A bearer brought a large kettle of rice wine and placed
it at the chief's feet. We had to drink because the major planned to make a token purchase of a few horses. It was
a quick deal, for its one purpose was to impress the Lolos that we were in the market for horses.
Even before the deal was closed curious Lolos began to jam the room. The squatted against the walls and watched us as
the chief had a second meal after selling the horses. The chief ate with chopsticks this time and we shared some beef
and pork with him.
The smell of bodies in the room was stifling. The tribesmen squatted close to us, constantly feeling our muscles,
touching our faces and rubbing the hair on our arms. Their faces were strange and distorted in the candlelight.
They took the jungle knives out of our belts and seemed content to sit and hold and stare at them. They inspected
every single item of our clothing. The zippers on our field jackets were something they couldn't believe. When we
smoked they were not so much attracted by our cigarettes as by the matches we used to light them. They light their
own pipes with flint and metal.
When Wong informed the chief that we had to leave in a few days, he tried to persuade us to stay longer. He wanted
us to remain in the village long enough to teach his people some American habits and maybe a few words of English.
Lolos, wearing capes, in a town just beyond the Yellow River.
He and all the tribesmen pumped us with endless questions about the United States and about the whole outside world.
When we told them about American farmers their first questions were: How many guns does an American farmer have?
How many horses? how much silver? They wanted to know if there were any beggars in the U.S.
The Lolos themselves are not yet certain that the world is round. They asked us for proof that the globe spins. If
it spins, they reason, why don't people fall off and why doesn't the water spill out of rivers and lakes? They believe
that the chief's house, a three-story structure, is the last word in modern building. When we told them about
skyscrapers and New York, they refused to believe us.
The chief's right hand man told us that the Lolos had seen a few airplanes. If the Americans could make such things
from reading books, he said, then the Lolos were going to get books. The chief's brother, considered the most daring
man in the tribe, offered the major his best horse and the title of godfather to his children, if he could have a
plane ride. The major said he would try to arrange it. We sensed something more than
curiosity in the brother's
request. It seemed possible that he was preparing to unseat his brother and was banking on adding to his personal
prestige in the community by taking the death-defying risk of air travel.
The evening's Lolo version of a bull session finally folded and we slept. The rest of our stay with the tribe was
largely a matter of preparing to leave for camp.
The Lolos continued in their curiosity about us and we continued to observe them. The Lolo women, we discovered, are
attractive - what you can see of them. Only their hands and faces, and sometimes their feet, are visible. They seem
quite innocent of bathing and the dirt on their hands has undoubtedly been untouched by water for years. Possibly they
observe the Tibetan custom of but three baths per lifetime - one at birth, once at marriage and finally at death.
This allergy to bathing was a major obstacle to our interest in the Lolos. We could observe them with enthusiasm while
our lungs were full of fresh air, but enthusiasm waned with longer, closer contact.
Our mission had been finished with the buying of the horses. We packed our gear, including our kidney and tripe,
mounted our horses and headed back to the GI camp.
By Sgt. Cpl. Jud Cook - YANK Staff Correspondent - July 15, 1945 edition.
WITH THE FIRST CONVOY TO CHINA OVER THE LEDO-BURMA ROAD - The celebration of Pfc. Oscar Green's 21st birthday
was the biggest in his life. That, however, was only because of a coincidence. Green drove a jeep in the first motor
convoy in history from India to China. The day the convoy reached its destination at Kunming was also Green's birthday,
and although the Chinese people never heard of Pfc. Oscar Green, they did know one thing - the convoy had ended a
three-year blockade by the Japs of a land rout to the Orient. So the people put on the wildest celebration in their
eight years of war. And not until then did I notice the change in Oscar Green.
When I started from Myitkyina, Burma, in Green's jeep, he had muttered: "To me this is just another dirty detail.
Damned if I don't always seem to catch 'em." All through the trip he had stuck by that belief. "Who likes sleepin'
on the ground?" he would ask. "Or cooking his own meals? Or getting windburned and chapped and covered with dust?
I sure as hell don't."
Then, on Green's birthday, our jeep finally swung through the narrow streets of war-swollen Kunming at the end of the
thousand-mile journey, and Oscar took in the scene. There were thousands of Chinese - some wrinkled with age and some
tiny kids, a few of the wealthy in fine clothes and an overwhelming number of poor in tattered rags. They lined our
path for miles, scanning the long procession of vehicles, waving banners, shooting off firecrackers, grinning,
clapping and shouting. Green dropped his cockiness and cynicism. He grew silent. When he spoke again he was dead
serious.
"You know," he admitted grudgingly, "you been hearing me bitch ever since we started, but now that it's all over I
guess I was wrong in a way. I'm sorta glad now we made the trip because somehow I feel this thing's gonna go down
in history."
Most of the rest of us in the convoy went through the same transformation as Oscar Green. Those of us who realized
early the significance of what we were doing were backward about saying so, afraid of being laughed at. Sooner or
later everyone began to sense something in the patient faces of the Chinese people; in the lavish celebrations they
insisted on throwing for us in their war-shattered villages; in the holidays they declared at each place we passed
through; in the pathetically flattering signs that called us "gallant heroes"; in the thumbs-up greetings and grins
we got from the long lines of ill-equipped, underfed Chinese soldiers trudging wearily back to the front.
This was more than just another long drive over dusty roads. This marked the closing of one chapter in this war in the
Far East and the opening of another. Thousands of Chinese, American, Indian and British soldiers had fought, worked
and died in Burma and China to make this trip possible.
The convoy rolled out of Ledo in Assam Province of India even before the Japs had been completely cleared from the
Shweli River Valley - the last link in Burma between Ledo and the Burma Road. Three days and 260 miles later the
vehicles pulled in to Myitkyina, the biggest American base in Burma, and waited. After a week the convoy got the
go-ahead from Lt. Gen. Dan I. Sultan, CG of the India-Burma Theater, who announced that farther down the road the
last pockets of resistance were being mopped up.
We got up in the darkness next morning, dressed with chattering teeth, drew 10-in-one rations, packed our bedding
and equipment in the vehicles and gathered at the push-off point. At 0700 hours Brig. Gen. Lewis A. Pick of Auburn,
Ala., who had directed most of the Ledo Road construction and was to lead the convoy, called the drivers together for
a last-minute meeting. "Men," he said, "in a few minutes you will be starting out on a history-making adventure.
You will take the first convoy into China as representatives of the United States of America. It's up to you to
get every one of these vehicles through. Okay, start 'em rolling."
As I got into jeep No.32 with Green and Pfc. Ray Lawless of Brooklyn, a photographer for the Signal Corps, I noticed
that a Chinese driver was climbing into the cab of every truck as assistant driver. Other Chinese soldiers, veterans
of the Burma campaign, were boarding the six-by-sixes to serve as armed guards for the convoy.
By 0730 the parking lot was filled with the noise of engines as the vehicles rolled out, turned into the Ledo Road
and headed south through the early morning mist. There were motorcycles with MPs, jeeps and quarter-tons, GMCs and
Studebakers, ambulances and prime movers.
The convoy thundered along, stopping only for a K-ration lunch. We passed American engineers, bulldozers and graders,
Indian soldiers digging a drainage ditch, and Chinese engineers building a plank bridge. Fifteen miles from Bhamo
we came upon a macadam highway that had been built before the war, and by late afternoon we were pulling into a
bivouac area. A GI tent camp had sprung up all over Bhamo in the month and a half since its capture, and it had
been policed up considerably. Nevertheless, when Lawless got out of the jeep to take a picture of the convoy entering
the shell-blasted city, he found it hadn't been cleaned up quite enough.
"Phew," he said, turning up his nose as he came back to the jeep, "what a stink back there. Someone forgot to bury
what was left of a Jap hit by mortar."
More vehicles joined us at Bhamo, increasing the number in the convoy to 113.
At dawn the next day we were off again in the morning mist, bypassing a knocked-out bridge. Soon we plunged into the
jungles and hills, following an ancient spur road that had first been used by foot travelers in the day's of Marco
Polo and before the war was the main route for supplies from Rangoon.
American and Chinese drivers during stop at Namhkan.
That afternoon the convoy descended the hills to the fertile, open country of the Shweli River Valley and entered
Namhkan, which had been captured by the Chinese 38th Division only nine days before. Before we got through the
battle-scarred village, an officer halted the first jeeps.
"Looks like you'll have to lay over here a few days," he said. "The Japs still hold several miles of the road up ahead.
Some of them are right up there in those mountains, five miles away, with artillery, and they can see every move we
make. They forced our guns from one position yesterday with their 150s."
The convoy went a few miles past Namhkan, and pulled into a wooded area that had been the Jap stronghold a few days
before. There were cleverly concealed emplacements everywhere. Unpacking, we could hear the dull thud of Jap shells
miles away and occasionally the sound of Chinese mortars. The drivers were wide-eyed because this was the first time
most of them had ever been so close to the enemy.
While everyone lolled about the next day, I went around and talked with some of the drivers. All were members of
Quartermaster trucking companies. Like Green, who hails from Taylorville, Ill., most of them are from small places
like Ada, Okla.; Imlay City, Mich.; Oakland City, Ind.; Oconto Falls, Wis., and Pikeville, Ky.
Most of the veteran GI drivers here are Negroes who have been piloting trucks over the Ledo Road for 18 to 24 months.
In fact, 90 percent of the convoying on the Ledo Road for more than a year was done by Negro drivers. "Them monsoons
was the toughest part of it," said Wilbur T. Miller of Tupelo, Miss. "Last summer, for example, there was several
feet of water in some places, higher than our hub caps. The whole road was sometimes just a sea of muck. The rain
seemed to cave in a couple of tons of earth on the road in different places every week, and all we could do was set
there waiting for a couple of days till the engineers could shovel it off. And boy, that ain't fun."
On our fourth afternoon in Namhkan, Gen. Pick got a message that American-manned General Sherman tanks had spearheaded
the final break-through along the road to the Burma Road junction, so next morning we were off again. Within two
hours the convoy arrived in the village of My-Se - where the last big battle had taken place - for a celebration.
Into the leveled town came troops of the Chinese First Army and men of the Chinese Expeditionary Force, who had driven
through from Burma and China over the last six months to clear the Japs away from the Ledo and Burma Roads. The two
armies were a strange contrast. Soldiers of the First Army, who had fought in Burma, wore sun-tans, GI helmets and
British packs, and carried Enfield rifles and tommy guns. They looked plump and well-fed. But the Pings of the
CEF, who had fought through from China, wore everything from ragged and patched blue uniforms to clothes they had
stripped from the bodies of Japs. Only one man in every squad seemed to have a weapon - usually an ancient German
rifle or a Jap Arisika - and all of them looked half-starved. The difference between the extensive American
air and land supply lines to Burma and the blockaded land route to China that made military supply in quantity
impossible. Looking at the contrast, some of us caught on to the significance of the convoy.
From My-Se the convoy wound through barren hills to Mongyu and rolled into the macadam highway at right angles to the
Road, past a signpost that had just been put up at the intersection: "Junction - Ledo Road - Burma Road." Just 20
hours before, tanks had cleared this junction and now for the first time in three years a convoy to China had arrived
at the Burma Road. But we didn't stop. The trucks swung left, passing more ragged single-file columns of the CEF as
we headed for the China border.
On top of a hill 10 miles from the Ledo-Burma Road junction, our vehicles halted and the drivers were ordered to put
Chinese and American flags and red-white-and-blue streamers over their hoods. The convoy started slowly downhill and
halted near an open field. Thousands of Chinese and American soldiers were massed before a platform containing more
American and Chinese generals than had ever been on a stage together in the previous three years of the Asiatic
War. After the speeches and the band music, Gen. Pick's jeeps drove through an arch decked with garlands of leaves
and signs and ribbons. Behind the arch was a short wooden bridge over a muddy stream. This was the Burma-China
border. The vehicles crossed the bridge and continued on through the border town of Wanting to bivouac near a tiny
village named Chefang.
For the next two days the convoy thundered through places that had been the battlegrounds of China during the last
six months. The road wound a thousand feet up into the Kaolikung Mountains, which are part of the Hump on the air
route between India and China. After hours of threading our way along the narrow mountain ledges we came around a
bend and could see below us the blue ribbon of the Salween River, which had been the Chinese line of western defense
for two years until the CEF offensive began last May.
That afternoon the convoy came out of the hills into Paoshan. A Chinese Army band blared as we rolled toward the
city gate, school children waved banners, firecrackers crackled and signs were plastered everywhere welcoming
"Commander Pick and his gallant men" and "More M1 munitions and all kinds of materials." That night there was a
big party in the Confucius Temple for the whole convoy. There were more speeches, an elaborate Chinese meal, acrobats
and gombays. Except for the difficulty of trying to eat with chopsticks, gombays gave GIs the most
trouble. Gombay id the Chinese toasting word meaning "bottoms up," and three or four gombays with
small tumblers of rice wine, which tastes like wood alcohol and is called jing bao or air raid juice by GIs
stationed in China, can be as powerful as a whole case of beer. Nevertheless the Chinese proposed toasts every 10
minutes, and the GIs, in their desire to be diplomatic, soon were feeling no pain at all.
Next day, despite hangovers, we made the longest day's trip of the whole journey - 150 miles through rice paddies
and up into the mountains again. Finally, at 1930 hours, the convoy halted in an open field. As we fumbled around
with flashlights to get our gasoline cook stoves going and put down our bedding rolls, a GI started beefing. "Why
the hell is it," he asked, "that every time we bivouac - except for last night when we slept on a concrete warehouse
floor - we always have to do it in an open field on the highest and windiest spot in miles?"
As it turned out, the next three nights were to be spent the same way. We had all brought jungle hammocks along, but
in the open fields the only place to string them was between trucks or guns or jeeps. Most of us just laid our
blankets on the ground. This particular night it was so cold that when we awoke next morning there was a frost on
our blankets. Lawless had to use our gasoline stove to melt the frost off our windshield.
The convoy pushed through Yunnanyi and another celebration, then camped as usual on a high, windy spot about 20
miles away. several GIs were in the streets of Yunnanyi to greet us, and one held up an empty beer case and yelled:
"Where's the beer? We only got two cans this month and four in December." From then on, as far as we went into China,
we heard the same question whenever we met American soldiers.
Beyond Wanting there were stone blocks beside the road that announced the number of kilometers to Kunming. I watched
them hour after hour, day after day, as they diminished from 960 to 812 to 668 to 449 to 303 and finally to less than
100. We learned a kilometer is five-eighths of a mile and we periodically figured out our mileage as we drove along.
Brig. Gen. Pick leads the convoy through Kunming.
Eleven days after leaving Myitkyina, shortly after passing our first Chinese factory - a salt plant at I Ping Lucg -
and coal mines nearby, we found ourselves pulling into bivouac at the 16-kilometer mark. It was above a broad lake
named Tienchih, and across it we could see the sprawling city of Kunming. Gen. Pick announced that next day the convoy
would enter the city.
That night was the worst one of the trip. A heavy rain started around midnight, soaking us and most of our personnel
equipment. In the morning we put away our dirty fatigues, took our wool uniforms from our barracks bags and dressed
for the last night and the biggest celebration of all. "This Kunming must be a chicken place," said Green. "We even
gotta put on ties." Again we put the Chinese and American flags and streamers on each vehicle. Gen. Pick called the
GIs together.
"I'm proud of you men," he said. "You've brought every one of 113 vehicles through safely. I'm going to see that
each of you drivers gets a letter of commendation."
The Chinese drivers climbed behind the wheels for the first time and the convoy moved to its destination. We were
tired, our clothes still wet from the night's rain, our lips chapped and our faces and necks red with windburn. We
all knew what to expect - more crowds and signs and arches and banners an speeches and parties.
Beside me, Oscar Green was quieter than usual. For one thing, he'd been feeling pretty sick, so sick we had stopped
our jeep the day before at a hospital along the road for him to get some pills. When he came out he said they wanted
to keep him in bed there because his temperature was over 100. But he refused to let Lawless or me tell anyone about
it for fear he wouldn't be allowed to finish the convoy. The other reason he was so quiet was that he'd been
figuring out something in his mind.
"They asked for volunteers among the drivers to fly back to Ledo tomorrow, instead of hanging around Kunming for a
few days to rest," he said, "and I told 'em I wanted to go. I wanta get behind the wheel of a big ol' GMC and really
boot it. This convoy was too much of a circus with all this celebration. I betcha we can make it in 8 days next time
instead of 12."
"Happy birthday, Oscar," I said, as the first truck convoy to reach China in three years rolled slowly toward the
0-kilometer marker.
By Sgt. Dave Richardson - YANK Staff Correspondent - March 23, 1945 edition.
WITH THE FIRST CONVOY TO CHINA OVER THE LEDO-BURMA ROAD -
Just what name the historians eventually will give to the Ledo-Burma Road was a question that got a lot of batting
around during the trip.
The official public relations folder on the Ledo-Burma Road, issued to correspondents beforehand,
called it "Pick's Pike."
But to thousands of GIs, the road from Ledo into Burma has always been the Ledo Road.
What's more, for centuries the Burma Road has earned somewhat of a name for itself.
Just when we had reached agreement on the name "Ledo-Burma Road,"
our convoy pulled into Yunnanyi under a giant sign that read:
"Welcome to the First Convoy over the Stilwell Road."
Some GIs around the place said Chiang Kai-shek had called it that on the radio.
Okay, we said, then we'll call it that.
Then what happens but we get a report that Stilwell in Washington doesn't like that name because it doesn't
give credit to the Chinese who did most of the fighting to open it.
After that, everyone started calling it what they liked - especially the drivers, who called it plenty.
Last I heard, at least three people had agreed on "Tokyo Turnpike."
The photographers - and there were 24 of them, GI and civilian, on the convoy, including two jeeps full from
the Air Corps. - ran into trouble now and then trying to get pictures.
For instance, when we reached Paoshan, there were a Chinese army band, a line-up of Chinese soldiers and
hundreds of civilians along the road to greet us - but they were all on the left-hand side of the road,
with their backs to the sun and their faces in the shadow.
The photographers saw this would never do so they got the band, soldiers, and civilians to move to the right-hand
side of the road so the sun would be on their faces.
This was not an easy job, but the photographers managed to accomplish it with much gesturing, pushing and yelling,
just as the convoy hove in sight.
Then, all of a sudden, a Chinese officer strode up, took one gander at the change and issued an order -
a loud and quick one too.
Immediately, the band, soldiers and civilians all rushed back across the road and stood in their original
positions, with backs to the sun.
The photographers howled in anguish.
One of them grabbed an interpreter and got him to ask the officer why he ordered everyone back and spoiled
what would have made a good picture.
The interpreter soon returned with a shrug.
"Military custom," he explained, "If they were on the right, the band would have to be at the end of the
line instead of the front.
The only dog in the convoy, hence the first dog to ever ride the Ledo-Burma Road or to cross the China-Burma
border in the last three years in a jeep, was a little brown pup belonging to a Chinese soldier.
I asked the GI driver of the jeep in which the dog rode what the pup's name was. "Wanting," he replied.
"Is that because Wanting was the first town in China after we reached the border?" I asked,
"Hell no," said the GI, "As far as I'm concerned it's because it's always a tree it's wanting."
It happened during a weird Kachin tribal dance the night of the big Seagrave homecoming celebration.
It was pitch dark and the Kachins go into a circle around a thumping drum and danced faster and faster
and faster, working themselves into the proper degree of delirium.
A GI who had imbibed a little too much rice wine at the evening's feast somehow got into the circle
and soon was prancing around with the Kachins.
Suddenly he darted out and started to walk away, shaking his head.
Someone asked him what had happened.
"Just when I thought they was really knockin' themselves out with that Lindy Hop,"
he said, "one of 'em turns to me and sez, 'Hey Joe, ya gotta Camel on ya?"
By Sgt. Dave Richardson - YANK Staff Correspondent - March 17, 1945 edition.
Battle of Mandalay
It was hard to dislodge Japs
from U. Khanti's holy hill.
MANDALAY - U. Khanti, a sad old man, his face and hands wrinkled by an uncounted number of years, was probably
the person who was most interested in the outcome of the 13-day battle between the 19th Indian Division of the Fourteenth
British Army and the Japs for the city of Mandalay. At any rate, he was undoubtedly the most interested local spectator
at the scene of the battle.
U. Khanti is better known in these parts as the Hermit of Mandalay. As a youth, he became so devout a Buddhist that
he collected more than $2,000,000 from all over the world for his religion. With this money he financed construction
of richly sculptured pagodas, idols, monasteries and temples at the peak of Mandalay Hill and around it. When his
work was completed, the hill became one of the most unusual shrines in the Far East.
When the Ghurkas with other Indian and British troops of the 19th Division approached the 800-foot hill from the
northeast, U. Khanti stepped out of his ramshackle hut at the bottom of it. He saw the forward elements of a Ghurka
battalion storming the Jap position on "his hill" and his face brightened with hope.
The Ghurkas didn't use the majestic network of stairways - 750 steps each - which climb to the peak of the hill on
either side. They clambered up the bare hillside instead. It was easier for them that way, for the Japs had posted
guards on all the stairways of the holy hill.
There was very little resistance until the Ghurkas were halfway up, and someone down below said the Japs must have
been caught unawares. The Ghurkas in the storming party said they had heard girls' voices singing what they called
"gay Japanese songs." Perhaps the Japs were entertaining their comfort girls. Or being entertained.
Whichever, this was evidence of one of the reasons U. Khanti hated the Japs. His holy hill was being desecrated. Another
reason for his hatred was that the missionaries of the Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere had leveled with bombs
much of his beloved city of Mandalay and had starved the population. The once happy, prosperous people who had come
to the hill to worship had been sad and hungry during the three years of Japanese occupation.
U. Khanti heard the artillery barrage let go as the Ghurkas approached the hilltop. After it, there was only the relative
battle quiet of a few stray shots. Then silence and the bodies of Jap soldiers strewn before massive figures of
Buddha and over the broken stairways and over the floors of one of the temples.
The Ghurkas withdrew, leaving the Jap bodies and the empty beer and sake bottles that lay near them. There was no sign
of the alleged comfort girls. If they had been there, they must have left by a southern exit.
Blindfolded Jap prisoners are lead into headquarters.
For the southern side of the peak had still to be cleared. U. Khanti watched men of the Royal Berkshires take over the
assault to the south. There the Japs hid inside the temples, behind pagodas and between huge Buddhist idols.
The fight for possession of the southern peak continued for three days. About 20 of the enemy escaped death until the
last by taking refuge in a tunnel running through the hilltop from east to west. The tunnel, made of rock and concrete,
was shellproof. It would have been too costly to try to take it by a frontal infantry attack, and an air strike was
ruled out because the British did not wish to damage the holy structures any more than could be helped.
U. Khanti was still watching, now apprehensively, when a British sergeant from Essex approached his CO. "Sir," he said,
"with your permission I would climb over the tunnel and throw a tin of petrol into the bloody thing. Then I would
follow up with a grenade and see what develops."
"Ordinarily," said the CO, "I would take a dim view of such a stunt, but carry on."
With a large can of gasoline in his arms and a pair of grenades dangling from his belt, the sergeant climbed cautiously
above the tunnel toward the top of one of the entrances. When he got there, he leaned over and hurled the gasoline
into the black opening, can and all. A second later he followed through with a grenade.
Flames and black smoke poured out of the entrance. U. Khanti and the other spectators heard screams and groans from
the bowels of the tunnel. Seven Japs, one by one, ran flaming from the tunnel and jumped, torchlike, from the top
of the steep hill.
Two British soldiers rushed into different tunnel entrances and pumped lead. Next morning 13 Japs were found dead in
the scorched corridors. The battle of Mandalay Hill was ended.
The second phase of the Battle of Mandalay - clearing out the city - wasn't far from U. Khanti's hut either. It centered
around an ancient fortress - Fort Dufferin - protected by a red-brick wall 26 feet high and surrounded by a 60-yard
moat. The Japs holed up here were able to keep the 19th Division at bay for 13 days.
Several attempts were made to capture the fort during that time. While the Royal Berkshires were fighting on the hill,
a battalion of Indian troops tried unsuccessfully to take Dufferin.
They used a 5.5 gun placed only 500 yards away from the fort's northern wall in this first assault. It threw 100-pound
shell after 100-pound shell against the target. When a breach had been made, the Indian troops advanced.
They advanced only to meet a withering barrage of machine gun fire at the most. In a few minutes the ground was soaked
with the blood of the wounded. Bearded, turbaned Punjabis ran the gauntlet of heavy Jap fire to carry out casualties
on their shoulders. And the other Indian troops were ordered to withdraw.
In the next few days several air attacks blasted the fort, again from the north. Two more infantry assaults were
launched on two different nights, but both failed. By the 11th day of the battle, the troops of the 19th had fanned
out to every section of Mandalay. Only Fort Dufferin remained in Jap hands. Finally, on the 13th day, wave after
wave of Mitchell bombers dropped 1,000-pounders on the northern walls. Then, just as the smoke settled, the infantrymen
prepared to storm over the rubble and into the fort.
They were poised for their charge when someone pointed to the breach in the wall. Two men stood there, one with a
white flag, the other waving a Union Jack.
The two men moved down to the infantry lines and explained everything. They were Anglo-Burmans who, together with 300
other refugees, had been imprisoned by the Japs. The Japs, they said, had fled to the south. "There isn't one left
in the fort now."
With this ending to the Battle of Mandalay, U. Khanti sent one of his followers up the holy hill to check the damage
to the statues of Buddha, the pagodas and the temples. Soon again his followers would be climbing the hill to worship.
Maybe they wouldn't look so hungry and sad.
By Sgt. Walter Peters - YANK Staff Correspondent - May 25, 1945 edition.
SUPER LOAD.
Bomb-bay doors open and tons of bombs pour out of these B-29s as they fly over enemy positions in Burma.
Their target was a Jap supply depot near Rangoon.
Combat Pay for Medics
Dear YANK:
I've seen the medics in action and I take my hat off to them. Most of them have more guts than us guys with the rifles.
I've seen them pull men out of cracked-up planes while the .50-calibers were going off around them like firecrackers.
I've seen them dash into cross fire that would cut a man to ribbons to help a guy who was in bad shape. I say give
them all the credit they deserve.
India
- Sgt. LOUIS P. STRACK
Pigeons for Planes
Dear YANK:
I have noticed that the English having been using homing pigeons in this war for all sorts of rescues at sea.
I also know that our Signal Corps is training pigeons for this war, but I have not heard anything about them
in the fighting zones.
I am in an outfit in India which does quite a bit of Hump flying. There have been plenty of forced landings
over the Himalayas and the crews of the forced-down planes could have been helped much sooner if there were carrier
pigeons on board these ships. Why not attach personnel who know and train carrier pigeons to these Hump-jumping
outfits?
India
- Cpl. FRED H. MATKOWSKI
333d Field Artillery
Dear YANK:
I just had the pleasure of reading Sgt. Bill Davidson's wonderful article, "Rommel, Count Your Men," and I want
you to know that a couple hundred other guys and myself really appreciated it to the highest.
It isn't often that a fellow comrade gets a chance to read something so great and inspiring as that. But when we
do you can be sure that our morale as American soldiers is greatly increased.
Although we're only the "Ditch-Digging-Engineers," our hats are off to those guys in the 333d Field Artillery and
we're wishing them all continued success.
India
- Sgt. LUCIAN E. COOPER
Pin-Ups for Morale
Dear YANK:
Just where does Pfc. Joseph H. Saling get the idea that YANK should stop the pin-up girls? There are quite a few GIs
thousands of miles from home who enjoy YANK and its pin-ups of American girls. After 10 or 15
hours of work everyday
it is good to find a few pin-ups of the most beautiful women on earth hanging on our barracks walls.
I'm married and have a darling wife whose picture is on the table beside my bed. In addition, I carry a couple of
her pictures in my billfold. But I am sure our wives and sweethearts wouldn't begrudge our having a few pin-ups.
China
- Pfc. JESSE C. GRIM
Pay and Bonuses
Dear YANK:
We, a group of Airborne (glider) Engineers have just read Pvt. Leo Delcambre's wailing letter in a recent issue
of YANK. He seems to think that the most manly act that can be performed is to jump with a parachute. Hell, we
don't even have parachutes.
I presume he has never landed in the middle of Burma on a Jap-held airstrip wedged in a glider with a bulldozer or
grader in his lap at 90 mph. So the poor boy had to spend five long days and nights with no protection but those
parachutes wrapped around him? Too bad. Our last and present mission has already passed nine weeks.
Rather than give glider troops $50 more, take it
away from the Paratroopers and Air Corps and give it to the
footborne Infantry.
India
- Cpl. J. T. Morris
YANK Profits
Dear YANK:
Just as a matter of curiosity, what happens to Yank's sales profits?
Fort Bliss, Tex.
- Cpl. A. K. GEHRINGER
• Most of Yank's income buys equipment for new operations, such as the printing and distribution center now being
set up in a forward area of the Pacific, and pays for the editions which are not self-supporting.
Slums at Home
Dear YANK:
I noticed that back in the States organizations are being set up for the purpose of rehabilitating Europe.
Most likely the few billion dollars pledged will come from the pockets of the soldiers who are lucky enough
to return from this conflict.
How's about starting such a project at home? The capital of the U.S. has its slums. Most big cities have areas that need cleaning
up. Let's clean house at home and correct these evils before we start on the other side. Then we would be doing
something for the fighting men.
Burma
- Cpl. JULES MARTIN WORDES
Shorter Workday
Dear YANK:
Wouldn't our worries about post-war employment of soldiers come to an end if six months after the war the entire
nation went on a six-hour workday instead of the present eight-hour day?
India
- Cpl. A. FORNEY
Compiled from various editions.
Now that the Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere is undergoing seaborne alterations, Japs show new interest in
things American. As part of the official orientation program aimed at
acquainting them with the habits of possible
visitors to the island paradise, Radio Tokyo recently beamed a report on the U.S. by one Goro Nakano.
Goro, a mean man with a statistic, used to be New York correspondent for the Tokyo newspaper Asahi. His lowdown
on life in the U.S. is several degrees more intimate than the cellar of a Wac's barracks bag.
In four outstanding evidences of Yankee barbarism, he finds two that deal with sex - not a bad average for any league.
But his first beef is the shocking lack of sportsmanship in U.S. sports.
Goro, who on his New York tour of duty probably never watched the Dodgers apply the needle to their opponents, says
that baseball is a fair game on the surface; so is football. But neither of these are typically American.
Hell, no. The real American sport is wrestling, and wrestling in America, Goro reports, is performed by "monsters
who are like spooks, six or seven feet in height" and bearing "such outrageous names as Man Eater, Man Mountain,
Champion of Hades, King Kong or Gorilla of Siberia."
The brutes, "huge and horrible looking," are imported from foreign lands (possibly Japan?) and pitted against
good-looking American youths. The good-looking American youths get into the ring with the monsters and tear them
apart in a contest that is considered fair "as long as edged tools are not used." Goro, whom we visualize as a
pleasant little chap with horn-rims and a couple of edged tools protruding from beneath his upper lip, is sick to
his stomach at such a spectacle.
A quick look at Broadway, which seems to have produced such outstanding dramas as "Tobacco Road," "Tobacco Road,"
and "Tobacco Road," shows Goro a theater where all the plays are barbaric. "The more cruel, the more popular they
become," he mutters and turns his attention to Hollywood.
In the War Bond selling drives, according to his shocked whisper, Hollywood actresses do nekkid dances. "Each time
the actress strips off some of her clothes, spectators are made to buy more bonds. Thus by barbaric methods they
bolster the dime-store patriotism of the ignorant Yankee masses." Goro forgets to mention that the drooling induced
by such entertainment makes it much easier for us to lick the stickum on our War Stamps.
"Actresses and young girls," Goro says, "go into Army camps giving comfort kisses to the servicemen. One actress
boasted of giving 15,000 kisses. The morale of the barbaric Yankee soldiers is being stirred up."
In closing, Goro, by this time a trifle stirred up himself, says: "These evils should convince the Japs that
America is a barbaric nation unparalleled in the world and should inspire a hatred in the Japanese people."
Frankly, the only thing we're worrying about is how to stop the Jap stampede on War Bond lines and enlistment
offices. Which way to the nearest orgy, Goro?
Edited by Sgt. AL HINE - Illustrated by Sgt. RALPH STEIN - December 29, 1944 edition.
Jinx Recalls Her Far East Gallivanting
MISS FALKENBURG, dressed in a white dress of Mexican wool with "Jinx" printed all over it in red, bubbled over
like a girl just back from her first dance. What she was back from was no dance, but a USO tour of the India-Burma
and China theaters of war with Pat O'Brien's entertainment unit. This gang played some 84 performances (exclusive
of hospital shows) for GIs.
Jinx and the gang were supposed to give only 54 performances on the trip. The rest were buckshee, put on because,
Jinx said, "Once you get going out there and see the guys, you want to stop and do a show everywhere, for everybody."
From the time we got up to the time we were ready to fall into bed, it was like a continuous opening night. Some places
I think the soldiers must have come out of the woodwork. The reception you got everywhere was enough to turn your head,
but, looking at the way the men were living and the roughness of it all and how far they were from home and how they
were staying there when you were going back, your head didn't turn. You felt like cheering them instead of being
cheered."
It was all new to Jinx and close to her because she has two brothers in service.
The floor of her hotel room was strewn with souvenirs - a coolie hat, silk prints, slippers, gadgets galore - and her
mind was strewn with reminiscences.
"I don't know what was most exciting, most interesting. There was a B-29 base where we had maybe the most intense
audience of the entire trip. They left when the show was half over to bomb the Japs. I sat in with the men at the
very tail end of the briefing for that mission. When one of them touched my shoulder, it was electric, as if he'd
hugged me - it was that tense.
"Everything you saw was new and exciting. I was always taking shots - you know, 'the hook' - but I was so busy they
didn't have time to make me sick. The men were wonderful to talk to and easy to talk to, and we tried to talk to
everyone that wanted to talk or take a snapshot or play ping-pong. We usually played a stiff game of ping-pong in
day rooms to relax ourselves."
"And now I've got to get used to sleeping without a net again. I want to go out again, overseas somewhere, as soon as
I can. The nets we used over there, by the way, were for keeping rats out - not mosquitoes. Once us girls had a huge
rat under one of our beds in China. It just sat under the bed going 'Chomp, chomp, chomp' like Bugs Bunny. We squealed
at first but we got used to it, and it was still chomping when we fell asleep."
"Everything reminds me of something else. I still can't talk straight about it."
She couldn't because she was still filled with the same excitement that carried her through her 84 shows - the same
excitement that sparkled out of her as she stepped from the plane that brought her over the Hump, dressed in a red
sweater, GI shorts and red stockings, and made Gen. Joseph Stilwell remark: "Now there's a real firewoman!"
by Sgt. Al Hine - YANK Staff Writer - February 16, 1945 edition.
RITA HAYWORTH in Columbia's "Cover Girl"
CLICK ON ANY PIN-UP FOR FULL SCREEN IMAGE
Franklin D. Roosevelt 1882- 1945
Most of us in the Army have a hard time remembering any President but Franklin D. Roosevelt. We never saw the
inside of a speakeasy because he had prohibition repealed before we were old enough to drink. When we were kids
during the depression, and the factories and stores were not taking anybody, plenty of us joined his CCCs, and the
hard work in the woods felt good after those months of sleeping late and hanging around the house and the corner
drug store, too broke to go anywhere and do anything. Or we got our first jobs on his ERA or WPA projects. That
seems like a long time ago.
And since then, under President Roosevelt's leadership, we have struggled through 12 years of troubled peace and war,
12 of the toughest and most important years in our country's history. It got so that all over the world his name meant
everything that America stood for. It meant hope in London and Moscow and in occupied Paris and Athens. It was sneered
at in Berlin and Tokyo. To us wherever we were, in the combat zones or in the forgotten supply and guard posts, it
meant the whole works - our kind of life and freedom and the necessity for protecting it. We made cracks about
Roosevelt and told Roosevelt jokes and sometimes we bitterly criticized his way of doing things. But he was still
Roosevelt, the man we had grown up under and the man whom we had entrusted with the staggering responsibility of
running our war. He was the Commander in Chief, not only of the armed forces, but of our generation.
That is why it is hard to realize he is dead, even in these days when death is a common and expected thing. We had
grown accustomed to his leadership and we leaned on it heavily, as we would lean on the leadership of a good company
commander who had taken us safely through several battles, getting us where we were supposed to go without doing
anything foolish or cowardly. And the loss of Roosevelt hit us the same way as the loss of a good company commander.
It left us a little panic-stricken, a little afraid of the future.
But the panic and fear didn't last long. We soon found out that the safety of our democracy, like the safety of a rifle
company, doesn't depend on the life of any one man. A platoon leader with the same training and the same sense of timing
and responsibility takes over, and the men find themselves and the company as a whole operating with the same confidence
and efficiency. That's the way it will be with our Government. The new President has pledged himself to carry out its
plans for the successful ending of the war and the building of the peace. The program for security and peace will
continue.
Franklin D. Roosevelt's death brings grief but should not bring despair. He leaves us great hope.
YANK - May 1945 editions.
YANK
THE ARMY WEEKLY
China-Burma-India Edition - Part Two
YANK, The Army Weekly, original publication issued weekly by Branch Office, Information & Education Division, War Department,
East 42nd Street, New York 17, N.Y. Reproduction rights restricted as indicated on the editorial page.
Entered as second class matter at the Post Office at New York, N.Y., under the Act of March 3, 1879.
Subscription price $3.00 yearly. China-Burma-India Edition printed by G.B. DASS at the Eagle Lithographing Co. Ltd.,
Calcutta.